Our direct flight from Riga to Marrakech took 5.5 hours - yes, airBaltic now offers direct flights to Marrakech and that is so amazing! No layovers, no long hours at airports. And just like that - you are in a different continent. Actually, you are suddenly in a whole different world - Marrakech really is something else.
This was our first time in this city. I won't say that I was worried to visit Marrakech, but there are quite a few stories and stereotypes linked to it. For example, people say that it is not safe, so I was not surprised when I received messages from people asking me how do we feel there, is is safe enough, do we walk around alone etc. I get it - at first it can be a little bit scary. Scooters and motorbikes everywhere - even on the narrow streets. A lot of people, a lot of shops with salesmen trying to get your attention. But I got used to it all pretty quickly. I actually enjoyed the chaos.
Our first hotel - Riad Kheirredine
We were lucky enough to stay at the best hotel in Marrakech - Riad Kheirredine. It is a 5 star boutique hotel in the middle of the chaotic Medina (Old Town) The location really gives you the ultimate Marrakech experience - there are kids playing on the streets, locals coming back from work, kids going to school. Medina is a maze - literally. The streets are so narrow and most of them look the same because of the colour of the buildings. Our Riad arranged us a transfer from the airport, and one of the staff members came to pick us up. It is a 15 minute walk from the taxi/transfer drop off place, and you are in paradise - it really feels that way. I cannot compliment the staff enough - now I know why all of the reviews are so good. They are all so wonderful - making sure you get everything you need. Sim card? No worries. Need to exchange money? No problem. Need a guide? They will arrange the best tours with the best guides. They will do anything to make you feel like you are at home.
We spent 4 beautiful days at Riad Kheirredine and I didn't want to leave. This place is magical. The decor is amazing, interior is so, so beautiful. We loved the breakfast which you can have at various places - on the rooftop, in the pergola, also by the plunge pool. We had dinner on the rooftop terrace every night even though we didn't plan on doing so before we arrived. Everything was so delicious and the service was so nice. Our waiter Yassine made our time at this hotel even better - he was so kind, always coming up with the best recommendations for us. He made the best shisha for us as well in the pergola. We were always looking forward to our breakfast and dinner because of Yassine - his energy is contagious and it was always so fun to talk to him. Thank you, Yassine! We cannot wait to see you again next year! :)
You get to drink Moroccan tea whenever you want - it is complimentary at Riad Kheirredine. That was such a nice touch. We really drank Moroccan tea during breakfast, by the pool, on our little balcony, at dinner and after dinner. So pretty much all day :) I highly recommend the Moroccan dinner - soo delicious! And they also serve wine - it is not so common in Marrakech, but at Riad Kheirredine you get a whole list of delicious wines. The food is really very good, as I mentioned before, they have a big selection of wines, Moroccan dishes, Italian dishes and also International food choices. So something for every taste! The prices are also very good.
And that is not all: we also tried the spa - Royal Treatment which includes hammam and a massage for two persons. Perfection! Our room was very cozy, it was cleaned not one, but two times a day - in the evening everything is prepared for a good nights sleep. That was so cute and thoughtful.
No place like Riad Kheirredine
We do travel a lot, and we have stayed at different hotels all around the world - and most of them we really love, but Riad Kheirredine is like no other place. It has this luxury feel yet it is so laid back. So quiet and peaceful - everyone will find a place for themselves. It felt like home. We really enjoyed the pool on the rooftop terrace - there are plenty of sun beds and the water was so refreshing (it gets really hot during the day in November) So we spent our afternoons there and after that we went for our daily evening walk through the Medina. And then we came back to our home :) Such good memories! Each staff member really cares about you and your needs. Oh and I almost forgot, but this is actually really important: they offer to walk with you to the Medina and from the Medina if you need it. We walked with one of the staff members to the Medina the first time, but we managed to get back by ourselves. But if you feel like you might get lost or that you feel uncomfortable walking back alone, they are ALWAYS ready to assist you. You even get a mobile phone with direct access to the hotel - reach out and they will be ready to help with anything you might need. We used Google Maps and always found our way back.
Book a room here: Riad Kheirredine
I would like to say the biggest thank you again to all of the people who work at Riad Kheirredine - you make this beautiful place even more beautiful. Arjane, Sara, Elena, Yassine and the rest of the beautiful, kind people that work at Riad Kheirredine - I wish I could mention all of you because you are all so special and amazing! Thank you from the bottom of our hearts! Cannot wait to see you all again! This place really is the best. No wonder I cried when we had to move out of our Moroccan home. :)
Let’s explore the Medina!
Ok, now let’s explore the Medina together! Get ready to shop and to bargain - the salesmen expect you to do that, that is part of the experience and that is how it works. As our guide Ahmed said - enjoy and have fun! Of course, if you are not used to it, at first it can be awkward or even scary, but don't worry - you will probably learn how to do it. How to do it? If you like something, ask for the price. They will name their price (and you won't like it of course) and what you do next is - name 1/3 of the price they just gave you. So if they say 150 MAD (which is about 15 EUR) you say - no, my price is 50 MAD. The salesman will probably laugh and say - “no, this is good quality, best price I can give you is 130 MAD”, and you will then say that you can offer 80 MAD. Salesman will say that he cannot accept, but that he can give you his best price and that is 100 MAD. And you can go on and on and on until you reach the price that works for you. They usually accept your offer and you will usually meet in the middle. We went on a tour through the souks with our guide Ahmed, and he helped us to find the best shops and to bargain a bit as well, but then he said “Signe, now have fun and bargain! Enjoy!” and I had to fight for my Pashmina (silk/wool) scarf myself. And it was fun. And also scary because I don't know how to do these things. But I managed to buy my scarf for 300 MAD even though the salesman wanted 600 MAD at first. Maybe I still paid more than I should have, maybe somebody that has the nerve and patience to bargain for 30 minutes and not 5 minutes like I did, will get an even better price, but this worked for me and I was so happy. Thank you, Ahmed, for making me bargain. Later on we went to souks by ourselves and went home with an overweight luggage. So I have to say it was a success. :)
What to buy? My dream was to buy a Moroccan blanket/bedspread for our bedroom, and Ahmed recommended one store that you can really trust - the most amazing salesman Mohamed and the best quality products. We went in to buy a blanket, but went out with rugs for our bathrooms and also some pillowcases. And I am soo mad at myself that I didn't get a pouf for our living room. But - next time for sure :) He also has amazing carpets, towels, scarves. Everything is soo beautiful. You can find Mohamed and his products on Instagram - @the_loom_house. You can either purchase something online and he will send it to you, or you can look at the photos and get inspiration, and later, when you will travel to Marrakech, you will visit his store and buy some beautiful things for your house :) He will give you the best prices!
I also recommend the pashmina scarves - they are sooo soft and also so pretty. And also leather bags, wallets. I got my mom a pretty big traditional Moroccan leather backpack for 30 EUR. She loves it! You have probably seen those beautiful Moroccan lamps, lanterns, candle holders. We really wanted to buy one, but I have to admit that they are pretty pricey. BUT I understand why - it is soo difficult to make one. Our guide Ahmed took us to a place where you can not only buy these lamps, but also see how they are made - and wow, that was impressive. And of course, you always have to check the quality: the ones we saw at the place where Ahmed took us were amazing, but some that you can see on the streets are looking pretty cheap, but probably they will ask you the same price as for the ones that are really well made. Always be careful and look for the best options! And of course - Argan oil, different spices are the things you definitely want to bring back from Marrakech.
What to see?
I have to say that the Medina itself is something you will want to explore almost everyday. There is always something new, something is always happening. All of it is very interesting. But if I have to name exact places that tourists usually love - Jardin de Majorelle of course, Ben Youssef Madrasa, Le Jardin Secret, Jemaa el-Fnaa square and also Agafay Desert.
Jardin de Majorelle - at this place I felt like at any other tourist spot in Europe. Suddenly everything was different than in the Medina. Everybody trying to get the perfect photo even though it is almost impossible because of the crowds. We arrived at around 9am and there was already a line to buy the tickets. If you want to skip the line - buy tickets in advance from their website, but keep in mind that you have to do so 24 hours before. When we were leaving the garden, the line was 3 times longer. Crazy! The place itself is beautiful - there is no doubt. Yves Saint Laurent once lived here - he fell in love with Marrakech and now I see why. The iconic blue house painted in the Majorelle blue colour is a must see, but you can barely see it because there are so many people around it. The garden is very pretty, there is a huge selection of cactuses. You have to pay 12 euros to enter and even though there were A LOT of people, I would still recommend this place. A must see for sure.
Ben Youssef Madrasa - located in the Medina, the islamic college is now a historical site that attracts many tourists. Such a beautiful place! I think that the entrance fee was 5 euros per person. We stumbled upon this place during our daily walk - I know that a lot of bloggers try to wake up early and take gorgeous photos at this place, but we went there in the afternoon and it was still magical. I definitely recommend this place!
Le Jardin Secret - this place is located in the very middle of the Medina. Between the souks and the chaos you will find this peaceful garden. The origins of the complex date back to the Saadian Dynasty, more than four hundred years ago. Rebuilt in the nineteenth century, Le Jardin Secret has been the home of some of Morocco and Marrakech’s most important political figures. And as of now tourists are able to visit it - it has been renovated pretty recently. If I am not wrong, tickets were 80 MAD which is 8 EUR per person.
Jemaa el-Fnaa - the most chaotic and hectic place I have ever visited. And all roads lead to it. Jemaa el-Fnaa is the main square in the Medina of Marrakech. It is pretty big - shops, lots of street food options, snake charmers (beware of them - if you will take a photo, they will chase you and ask you for money) We didn't even get close to them since I was afraid, but we spotted them in the distance. It was pretty disturbing to see monkeys chained so people can take photos with them - please, do not do that, don't support such actions. Overall this is a place that you HAVE to see. Pure madness. It gets more crazy when the sun goes down - fully crowded and very loud. This is the place where the salesmen can get pretty annoying - they will walk with you and demand that you buy something from them. Just ignore them and go on. You do not need to engage in a conversation. It was an experience for sure - one you will not forget! My advice is to just to go with the flow and don't stress too much! I look at it like it is something interesting, something different and new for me - because it is! And it is so nice to experience something new. There are a lot of really nice rooftop restaurants around the square - you can choose one and see the chaos from above in a much more calm setting. We chose Cafe Zeitoun and it was amazing. Do not be afraid - you have to visit this square!
Agafay Desert - oh, what a place! You have to visit the desert! If you don’t have a chance to stay overnight, then at least choose a day tour with camel rides or a quad bike tour. We went with the quad tour and it was soo good! The scenery is beautiful, really. We have been to the desert in Dubai and it was also very charming, but Agafay is something different - the Atlas mountains as a backdrop, the colour of the sand/little stones… We loved it! Definitely plan a trip and visit this amazing place. It will leave you speechless! We chose this option: book here: Agafay Desert Quad Bike Tour
Some useful tips:
Wear sunglasses in the souks - it will definitely help you to escape the stares of the salesmen who are willing to sell you everything and anything. I found it really helpful, because if somebody will catch your stare, most likely they will try to talk to you and convince you to buy something. If you are a person who doesn't like to say ‘no', then try this hack :) I noticed that if the salesmen can't see your eyes, they won't bother you. After a while I didn't need the sunglasses because I got used to the Medina life. But at first it really helps to settle in.
Be polite - always say thank you. Be kind and polite - you do not need to buy anything you don't want to, even though some salesmen will try to convince you. Just say “no, thank you” and go on with your day. Don't be rude if you cannot agree on the price - it can happen. Just say thanks and move on. The majority of the people who sell stuff at the souks are very friendly and nice. All of the shop owners and salesmen we met were always polite and always smiling while talking with you. They will make a few jokes about the prices etc., and you can joke back. Just be nice :)
Don't ask for directions - unfortunately, most of the people that will be willing to ‘help’ you and guide you through the Medina if you don't know the way, will ask you for money. First, they will lead you to the wrong way, and then they will ask for money to ‘help’ you find the place you are looking for. The staff at our Riad warned us about such people - they will tell you where the main square is, and if you will trust them, they will most likely scam you. They will sense that you are lost and just like that - someone will be there to 'help’ you. So try your best to not look lost :) Buy a sim card and use Google Maps - it will help a lot, trust me.
What to wear?
This is also a topic that a lot of tourists are interested in: so what should you wear? There are actually no strict rules, but you should be respectful. Although I saw girls who were wearing short skirts or revealing tops and it seemed like nobody cared, I still think that you should respect this country and their culture. It is not that difficult to cover your shoulders, to wear midi skirts or longer dresses. And majority of the female tourists did that - just a few who didn’t. I felt very comfortable wearing tops and covering my shoulders with scarves. I wore midi dresses, light pants (no jeans because that would not be possible because of the heat) longer skirts with blouses etc. To be honest I took some shorts with me, some shorter dresses, but I never wore them. So I suggest you to pack a few midi dresses, skirts, pants, tops, blouses with long sleeves that you can style with pants, dresses, also some light scarves - if you don't have any, buy some at the souks: there are a lot of beautiful options.
Lunch/dinner - we loved these delicious places!
Moroccan food is one of the best we’ve ever tried. If you love spicy food - this is the place for you. You’ll find so many amazing restaurants and cafes in Marrakech - and most of them are pretty affordable and the food is so yummy. We tried to eat at quite a few places and we really liked them all. Here are some of our favourites:
Cafe Yazel
Cafe Zeitoun
Souk Cafe
M Bacha Restaurant
Definitely try the tajine - a North African dish named after the earthenware pot in which it is cooked. Lamb tajine, beef tajine, vegetable tajine, chicken tajine: all of them are super delicious. And of course, try the fresh pomegranate juice - you can buy a glass of it for 20 MAD (2 EUR) almost everywhere in the souks. And the fresh orange juice is also soo good. And don't forget the traditional Moroccan tea and pastries!
Riad Be Marrakech
This was our second Riad - different than the first one, but also very nice. This place isn't as luxury, but it has its own vibe. Riad BE Marrakech is one of the Riads that influencers choose to stay at - it is very difficult to book a room there because it is almost always sold out. If you’ll go to Pinterest and search ‘Instagrammable places in Marrakech’ or just ‘Marrakech Instagram’ to see which places are worth a visit, you will see Riad BE in many photos. Yes, it is very popular, but it is not crowded since there are only a few rooms there. Riads are traditional Moroccan houses that people have transformed into hotels, guest houses. There is usually a fountain or a pool in the middle, or a garden. And around it (usually in two stories) there are some rooms. Riad BE has 7 or 8 rooms (if I am not wrong) in one Riad, and recently they have opened another Riad just next to it. So even though it is always sold out, there are not many people in the property. It is still peaceful and quiet and you can get your insta-photos without any people in them :) We liked this place - the people who work there are very friendly, they are always willing to help. Breakfast was served on the rooftop terrace. We loved the terrace - it is especially romantic in the evenings - when we came back from the Medina, we just relaxed there with some wine or tea. The rooms are not very big (but the size was ok) and you do not get much light since the rooms in Riads almost always face the inner courtyard. And I have to say that there is something very charming about it. I suggest that you stay in a Riad and not in a hotel, resort (there are a few in Marrakech) - it is such a nice experience. Something so different and unique. We loved it.
Just wander around and enjoy!
I fell in love with Marrakech. Even though I didn't know what to expect and I was ready for anything, I fell in love. There was not a time when we felt unsafe - yes, it was all a bit too much for us at first, but then we got used to the lifestyle in Marrakech. You just have to accept that this place is different, that it has different energy. When you accept that and start to go with the flow - magic will happen. You are afraid to get lost? Don't be! Medina is a beautiful maze and we found that getting lost in it is quite charming. You’ll stumble upon hidden gems and shops that are not so expensive. And if you use a map or Google Maps on the phone, you’ll find your way out sooner or later. As I wrote before, do not trust the people who want to ‘help’ you with directions. You’ll be just fine once you’ll get comfortable enough. Start slow - at first go for a small walk, look around, try to feel the place. And then, step by step you’ll feel better and you will start to feel like a local :) Thank you, Marrakech! This will now be one of my favourite places, and I cannot wait to come back! Much love!